We ended up prolonging our stay in Hampi well beyond our original intentions. In part for several reasons, all of which arguably causative and symptomatic of each other- The landscape was breathtaking, the temples were weird and interesting, the village was tiny, the hassle factor squirms at a bare minimum and, above all else, the incredible people we met there. The long and emotional farewells as we said good bye to Goopi guesthouse were to say the very least, overwhelming. It was all a bit much considering i've only been in this country for 2 weeks. I would have stayed in Hampi. I could have spent the entire season reading in the sun, swimming in the lakes and riding around the eerie hills. And so i found the best reason to leave. It was just too easy. But i will miss those crazy, enthusiastic conversations about music, books and travel. I have added pages to my list of places to go, and a few prospective titles for the library. It is for this reason that last night's terror was amplified into shattering proportions.
We jumped in a conical boat to paddle across the river (our Guesthhouse was on the opposite side to Hampi - much more laid back), warned by the boatman to keep silent. We were crossing at an illegal time, i couldn't get the grin off my face as we sloshed about under a perfect crescent moon. A quick ride in a rickshaw to the Hospet train station, our destination: Hyderabad - a bustling high-tech city with a staggering 60% illiteracy rate. Of course, we knew the train was full and that there were no sleeper positions available - we knew that we were gonna have to ride in the 3rd class carriage with all the lower caste kids. But. But we could never have prepared ourselves for what lay in store. When the train arrived it was packed to the rafters. We were unable to sit, and were squeezed in ammongst sleeping families and loud chattering youths. Naturally, all eyes were on us. It is unheard of for a couple of "whiteys" to ride with the poor people on the night train. Maybe for a couple of stops during the day, but "why didn't you just book a sleeper?" Because we thought it'd be alright. After three hours the train stopped and a nearby Kerala bgorn gentleman who knew a little english informed us that we would need to jump out because we were in the wrong carriage. The front carriage goes to Hyderabad - This carriage goes to Bangalore. For a moment i considered sticking around and going further south - a few of the people we'd met were going there soon. But Agra is north, and Varanasi is north, and Pushka and Rishikesh and Manali and Nepal and Tibet and Santa Claus and Mrs Claus and all those dirty little elves are north. But how can one half of the train go to one place and the other bit go some where else? After a few hours, the train splits. Right. So we squeezed ourselves out of the carriage and hoofed our way to the Hyderabad bit, tried to slip the conductor a 100rps in the hope of acquiring a nicer seat. Failed. Got back in the 3rd class, stood for 3 hours waiting to get a seat, then slowly passed out.
When i woke up i had been turned into a child's play gym. Two little girls had climbed onto my lap and were using me as a platform so they could see out the window. Their mother was glaring at me at first, but soon relaxed when i didn't seem likely to hurt the children. As the trip continued, Marty and i gradually achieved celebrity status, as every young dude wanted to know our religion, marital status and thoughts on the cricket debarcle. This was nice for a while but soon became exhausting. I just wanted to sleep and they wouldn't go away! And the sentence could not remain in its supressed holding pattern - "I wish i'd stayed in Hampi." There i was asked to get my ipod so we could listen to Krush, Spirit Jack and Tortoise. In this carriage i was too scared to get my ipod out, for fear of losing it. But... i must say, the people in this country seem, wealthy or poor, overwhelmingly friendly, helpful, and honest. Though the cab drivers might be an exception.
Philosophical musings to a minimum this week. I'm so tired i can barely see the screen as i write this - i had to get it out while it was still hanging in my muscles. Finished Hemingway (Thanks Al!), and started reading a book by Jon Krakauer on the Everest tragedy of 1996. Funnily enough, i am thinking of doing the trek to the Everest base camp. Okay. Gotta go and recover. Fly to Varanasi in a couple of days. Hope everyone is well, please keep the emails coming, they make me feel good. Love,
Ben
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